St. Martin / St. Maarten is a Caribbean gem with a split personality, and I mean that in the best way possible. Half French, half Dutch, this small island packs in white-sand beaches, world-class dining, buzzing nightlife, and (of course) the famous Maho Beach plane-spotting experience. The Dutch islands and (to a somewhat lesser degree) French islands are generally my favorite islands in the Caribbean. Here, you can experience the best of both worlds. Whether you’re here on a cruise stop, a week-long getaway, or maybe just scouting out the airport on a work trip, this guide will help you plan your trip and make the most of your time.
Note: Unlike the “longer format” of most of my blog articles, I’m going to keep this relatively quick.
Table of Contents
- Why Visit?
- Best Time to Visit
- Getting Around
- Things to Do
- Food & Drink
- Practical Tips
- Where to Stay
- Quick FAQs
- Final Thoughts
Why Visit?
- Two Countries, One Island: Experience French sophistication and Dutch energy without ever going through customs to get between the two. There’s really nowhere else like it–at least, not within such a small geography (and certainly not at this latitude).
- Beaches Galore: 37 unique beaches, ranging from lively party hubs to secluded coves.
- Fantastic Shopping: From tax and duty free jewelry to Guavaberry Liqueur, there’s a lot of variety here.
- Adventure & Excursions: The steepest zipline in the world (“The Flying Dutchman”), snorkeling, sailing, and easy ferry trips to Anguilla or St. Barts.
Best Time to Visit
- High Season: December–April (great weather, but higher prices and crowds).
- Shoulder Season: May–June, November (somewhat lower prices, pleasant weather).
- Low / Hurricane Season: July–October (cheapest season).
Speaking for myself, I’ve only ever been in the summer shoulder season.
Getting Around
- Rent a Car: The best way to explore beaches, towns, and both sides of the island.
- Taxis: Readily available, but fares can be pricey for long distances.
- Cruise Visitors: Philipsburg is walkable, and day tours can take you to highlights quickly.
- Cruise Terminal Ferry: To get to downtown Philipsburg, take the shuttle and pay the $7 USD fee for the day pass. It’s worth it. Otherwise, you’re in for a long, hot, sunny walk.
Things to Do
There’s 37 beaches around the island (including one nudist beach: Orient Bay beach–families beware), but the quintessential one is Maho Beach, or as many know it as, “airplane beach.” Maho beach is found directly in front of SXM’s runway 10, about 1500′ from the middle of the strike zone of the runway. This causes large jet airliners to come within feet of the beachgoers below. There’s some unique pictures you can get from this beach, though ironically, I’ve never been myself. (I’ve seen too many people get seriously injured by jet blast to be really that interested.) There’s too many other things around the island that I’m drawn to do instead:
- Marigot: A picturesque little seaside French town with some good places to eat near the water. Chill, and more quaint and romantic than the Dutch side. Hurricane Irma back in 2017 did a number on Marigot, but I think it’s mostly recovered. (Unfortunately, their famous Butterfly Farm was destroyed by the storm and doesn’t look like it will be rebuilt.)
- Fort Louis above Marigot: Climb up to the fort for panoramic views of Marigot Bay.
- Philipsburg Boardwalk: Duty-free shopping, beachside bars, and cruise port energy. (And a cool beach that you can sit directly off the boardwalk in the water on. Touristy, but pretty cool.) I’ve been told that front street is where tax- and duty-free shopping began in the Caribbean, and while I can’t confirm that (yet), I believe it’s true. It is one of the better places to buy stuff in the Caribbean. (And Front Street is probably what you want to focus on for shopping. Back street isn’t as nice.) For shopping, specifically, consider:
- Delft: Most associated with the small city where much of it is made (Delft, Netherlands: I have some specific thoughts on Delft in my Netherlands article), this impressive (but not super expensive) white earthenware is always decorated with a blue pattern or drawing of some sort. It is easy to get real delft pottery items in stores in Philipsburg–specifically, look for “Royal Delft” or “Heinen Delfts Blauw” branded products. Throw some Gouda in there and some wooden shoes, and you can’t get more quintessentially Dutch than this.
- Jewelry: If you are interested in a Sinn watch, the store “Little Europe” is one of the few places to pick one up in person on this side of the Atlantic. With the Tax & Duty free status, I think it’s a little cheaper here than purchasing one in Frankfurt directly! Not unique to this port, but Marahlago (or other brands) Larimar jewelry is fairly abundant and reasonably priced. (Larimar is actually from the Dominican Republic… but I much prefer shopping in St. Maarten to the DR.)
- Watches: You can get a somewhat unique Swatch in this destination (Sea My Colors), but St. Maarten is one of the locations where you can get an actual “St. Maarten” slider in a lime green color. This is waaaaay cooler than just the yellow “Caribbean” one.
- Day Trips: I’ve never done it (most of my stops in St. Maarten / St. Martin were on a cruise ship), but you can take a ferry to Anguilla or St. Barts for island-hopping.
- Water Excursions: Like most of the Caribbean, snorkeling, sailing, jet skiing, and catamaran tours are widely available. Snorkeling isn’t going to be as impressive here as it will be in other places in the caribbean.
Food & Drink
- French Side: Similar to how the Netherlands compares to France in Europe, the dining is a bit fancier / more formal on the French side. It’s cool to experience this in the Carribbean–you can definitely get the French and Dutch vibes. Grand Case on the French side is supposed to be very nice for food (and Lolos – open air BBQ shacks serving ribs / lobster / johhnycakes / creole stuff), but I spent most of my time in the French side in the larger city of Marigot, just down the road.
- Dutch Side: More casual dining, international restaurants, and nightlife spots. Also–you can get “old cheese” (usually Gouda) in the Dutch stores over here.
- Cheese: Like what you’d find in Amsterdam, you’ll have access to some great “old cheese” here, as the Dutch would call it. (And the old cheese is what you want.) (Note that the cheese is going to be more expensive here than it will be in the Netherlands.)
- Local Drinks: Rum punch & especially the Guavaberry liqueur (and things made with Guavaberry liqueur) are island staples. “Old Man Guavaberry Liqueur” was kind of the old standard for the spirit (I think they built their little complex on Front Street in the early 19th century), but I think they’ve fallen on hard times during COVID, closing down their shop. Yikes… but you can still buy the liqueur on the island.
- Note, especially for fellow Texans: In my experience, it is VERY EASY to get FANTASTIC and PRETTY DARNED RARE BOURBON here for a song. I mean–we’re talking CASES of Eagle Rare or Blanton’s or pretty much whatever you want within reason at cost with no taxes or duty. (No… you still won’t find Pappy’s.) Duty rules still apply once you hit the US border, so make sure you report what you’re bringing in, or it could get confiscated. Even reporting your purchases won’t require you to pay near the amount of duty and markup you’d have to if you’d purchased the liquor in the US–if you could even find it.
Practical Tips
- Currency: Euros on the French side, Netherlands Antillean Guilders (“Florin”) on the Dutch side, but they’ll be happy to take USD everywhere, of course. Cash probably isn’t necessary unless you’re going into a straw market somewhere (which IS usually a pretty interesting experience).
- Language: French and Dutch are official, but English is widely spoken.
- Safety: Generally safe, though petty theft will occasionally occur in tourist areas (this is still the Caribbean). Keep a close eye on your belongings. You shouldn’t need a moneybelt with basic common sense.
- Electricity: French side uses 220V (European plugs), Dutch side uses 110V (U.S. plugs). Pack a universal adapter. I have previously shared thoughts about this. If you don’t have an International GaN Travel Adapter in your standard kit (even a domestic one), you’re missing out.
- Tipping: 10–15% is standard if not already included in the bill, and I remember it being included quite often. So… make sure that it isn’t included before you tip.
Where to Stay
- French Side: Boutique hotels, villas, and a quieter, less touristy, and more romantic atmosphere. Best for foodies and couples.
- Dutch Side: Larger resorts, casinos, and nightlife options. (Note that this isn’t Nassau or Vegas–and that’s a good thing.) Best for groups, families, and cruise passengers, which is why the cruise port is on this side of the island.
Quick FAQs
Is St. Martin / St. Maarten safe for tourists?
Yes, generally speaking–especially in the touristy areas. Once you get out of the touristy areas, it’s not that it’s super unsafe, but it gets a lot more run down. Just use common sense in crowded areas and you’ll be fine.
Do I need a passport to cross between French and Dutch sides?
Absolutely not. There’s no border control. You’ll probably see the Dutch and French flags flying next to the St. Maarten flag.
How many days do you need?
You can see the island overall pretty quickly in one day (especially with a rental car–and don’t worry–like their Dutch and French counterparts, they drive on the right side of the road). For the full experience, allow 3–5 days.
Final Thoughts
St. Martin / St. Maarten is a one-of-a-kind Caribbean destination where two cultures meet on one island. From plane-watching at Maho Beach to fine dining in Grand Case, it offers something for every traveler. Whether you’re here for a quick stop or a full week, the island’s blend of French charm, Dutch energy, and Caribbean beauty makes it unforgettable.
